Responsible approach

Mohair South Africa is looking to build on the success of the Responsible Mohair Standard with additional projects across several areas including traceability and regenerative farming. Twist spoke to the organisation to find out more.

As demand increases for Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) certified mohair from brands and manufacturers, Mohair South Africa (MSA) is continuing to focus heavily on ethical and sustainable production, with the RMS, launched by MSA in partnership with Textile Exchange in March 2020, now forming a key part of its work across the supply chain. “Mohair production in South Africa comes with great responsibility. MSA was established to assume this responsibility to develop and maintain industry standards in order to ensure ethical and sustainable practices and provide ongoing support for the South African mohair sector,” says Jackie Gant, relationship officer at MSA. “The RMS aims to provide the industry with the tools to recognise farmers’ best practices and to ensure that mohair comes from farms with an advanced approach to land management, animal welfare and social responsibility,” she explains. “Beyond the farm, it also aims to provide a traceability system throughout the entire value chain – from the farm to the finished product.” South Africa produced 2.3 million kg of mohair in 2021, and around 69% of the country’s 2022 summer mohair clip was RMS certified, according to MSA. It says that the 31% of mohair that was non-RMS certified came from communal farmers that currently can’t comply and a small number of commercial farmers that need to be converted.

Mohair auctions in South Africa continue to see a premium being paid for RMS certified mohair. During this year’s summer sale season, running from February to June, the average price premium for RMS certified mohair was 6.91% per kg. More than 1,400 companies post-farm gate worldwide have now been certified with at least one of Textile Exchange’s Animal Fibre Standards, which include the RMS, as well as the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS). Adding to the international adoption of the RMS, Textile Exchange has launched a herding pilot project at a production level applicable to some of the international mohair-producing countries. “The RMS continues to see widespre adadoption among growers, manufacturers and brands alike,” says Gant. “It is exciting to see a growing number of manufacturers and brands fast embracing the RMS and registering with the standard.”

Oritain partnership

Complementing the RMS is MSA’s partnership with the scientific traceability company Oritain. The New Zealand-based firm uses a combination of forensic science and technology to analyse mohair fibre and to verify its origin. “This gives manufacturers, brands and consumers assurance about traceability and helps to underpin wider product claims relating to where the source of the mohair fibre comes from and sustainable and ethical production of mohair fibre,”says Gant.

Regenerative agriculture and training

MSA is also supporting efforts to meet themrapidly growing demand for fibres produced using regenerative agriculture. “MSA supports the drive to highlight the positive impact of regenerative practices on mohair-producing properties, as we have done for the RMS,” says Gant. “MSA encourages producers to participate in educational programmes and help the overall drive towards regenerative agriculture.” As an example, she explains that the South African Mohair Growers’ Association (SAMGA) and the Mohair Empowerment Trust (MET) host training days and workshops for farmers and farm workers, educating them on angora goat handling and health.

Empowerment

Through its work with the Mohair Empowerment Trust, MSA is aiming to assist emerging farmers in the country’s mohair-producing region in developing successful and sustainable angora goat farming initiatives. The MET is a non-profit organisation established in 2010. Beauty Mokgwamme, the MET manager, explains: “Since 2010, the mohair industry has seen a need to focus on uplifting and partnering with emerging South African farmers who show potential, have access to suitable farm land and have either grown up or worked on a small stock farm, or have studied at Grootfontein Agricultural College – the only college that trains angora goat farming in the world – to become commercial mohair farmers.”

The MET’s primary objective is to provide financial assistance to its selected partners, enabling them to purchase the best quality Angora goats on a five-year interest free loan. The Trust also provides skills development, support and mentorship to these emerging farmers to establish and manage their agricultural operations and increase mohair production. Mokgwamme says the goal is that they become commercial farmers with more than 1,000 angora goats.

Veterinary support

In 2010 the MET took a wise decision to secure the services of an industry vet that has specialised in the health care of the angora goat. Dr Mackie Hobson, who grew up on a wool and mohair producing farm, has played a vital role in compiling, and updating when necessary, best practice guidelines that were developed for Angora goat health management training purposes in the form of manuals and videos. The manuals have been translated into four commonly spoken languages in the South African mohair industry. “Dr Mackie attends several conferences and sits on many panels as he is well placed to share important facts and information on the Angora goat,” says Gant. “He is available to all angora goat farmers in South Africa and is often seen at Farmer Days training both farmers and farm workers on animal health and best practices.”

Supporting communities

Gant stresses that through all its work, MSA is helping to support local communities in the Karoo region in South Africa, where around 51% of the world’s mohair is produced. “The production of mohair supports approximately 30,000 people, many of whom live in the Karoo and work hands-on with the goats,” says Gant. “The added value of mohair is that it is a renewable, natural resource committed to a sustainable production chain between animals and humans, while contributing to the long-term prosperity of the Karoo region. The journey from goat to finished product requires passion, dedication and an eye for detail.”

The Mohair Mark

Looking to the end consumer, MSA is continuing to see growing use of the Mohair Trade Mark, a fibre identification symbol that MSA developed to highlight that a product contains 10% or more of the finest quality mohair fibre. “This consumer-facing mark helps end consumers around the world identify products that contain the natural fibre, mohair,” says Gant. “The Mohair Mark should not be confused as a symbol of sustainability but rather as a fellow mark that compliments the RMS. It is a symbol that should be treated with respect and used with pride.”

• To find out more about how to apply for use of the Mohair Mark on mohair products, contact Mohair South Africa at: info@mohair.co.za or mohair.co.za/mohair-mark. The Mohair Mark is not limited to South African mohair.