Farm to Fabric Masterclasses: Educating the Next Generation of Fashion Designers

 

Photo Credit: Leandi Mulder

Through partnerships with leading global fashion institutions, we connect students with the world of mohair, inspiring them to rethink their design approaches and unlock their creativity using mohair. Education is one of our strategic pillars.

Massimiliano Giornetti, director of Polimoda, aptly states, “Training, by its very nature, is projected into the future. Our role is to create solid foundations that allow the entire fashion system around us to grow and develop.” This philosophy is exemplified through our partnership with the Design Academy of Fashion to sponsor the Sustainable Mohair Integration in Textile and Fashion Design Programme. By equipping students with knowledge and skills centred on mohair, we encourage engagement with the "farm-to-fashion" design process, allowing students to explore the unique properties of this sustainable fibre.

Photo redit: Cayly Warner

The programme led by Leandi Mulder, which included a collection of masterclasses, highlighted mohair as a locally sourced, sustainable fibre integral to the circular economy of design. As DAF celebrates its 25th anniversary, we envision the institution as a leading representative of mohair and textile design sustainability at the tertiary education level. Mulder notes, “We are running this new program which has allowed us to really emphasize the use of mohair as a local, sustainable fashion fibre. We think this cannot be taught without placing the biggest importance on the fibre origin, and following a farm to fibre to fabric to fashion model.”

Photo Credit: Cayly Warner

This program aligns with both DAF and MSA’s commitment to educating about mohair and its diverse applications.

Programme Outcomes

The masterclass series aimed to achieve the following outcomes:

  • Understanding Mohair: Students developed a comprehensive understanding of mohair as a sustainable, circular material.

  • Practical Skills: They cultivated hands-on skills in working with mohair, spanning the entire spectrum from fibre to fabric.

  • Innovation in Design: Sustainable design principles were applied to create innovative fashion products.

  • Industry Connections: Through workshops, students established connections with guest artisans and industry experts, fostering future career opportunities.

  • Empowerment: Participants were empowered as catalysts for change within the South African fashion industry.

Masterclass Topics

The masterclass series covered a diverse range of topics, each designed to immerse students in one of the many facets of mohair.

Farm to Fabric Masterclass

Frances van Hasselt presented a farm-to-fabric class to introduce students to the entire mission of these masterclasses and provide tangible reasons why students need to understand this kind of design thinking.  Frances grew up on a mohair farm and brought this experiential knowledge and affinity for mohair to the masterclass. Her brand, Frances VH Mohair is based in Prince Albert and offers hand-woven mohair textiles made by women artisans in South Africa.

Photo Credit: Cayly Warner

Flat Knitting Machine Masterclass

Founded by Hannelie Bekker, Wrapt Knitwear is inspired by the joyful act of getting dressed and “wrapping” oneself in fabric. Based in Johannesburg, Wrapt Knitwear predominantly works with natural fibres, including Merino wool, cotton, mohair, and linen. In this workshop, students learned to operate flat knitting machines and design knitwear with creative stitches, interesting mohair yarn combinations, and innovative shapes.

Hand-Knitting Masterclass

Adéle’s Mohair produces designer mohair and wool yarns, accessories, and textiles. Founded by Adéle Cutton in 1983, the business focuses on spinning, dyeing, and knitting, employing women from the community. Located in a picturesque countryside smallholding in the Eastern Cape, Adéle's studio is a hub of creativity. In this masterclass, Adele brought her yarns to the school so that students could explore how to use different textures and colours in their knitting. She worked with unique adventure yarns spun and dyed in her workshop situated outside of Port Alfred.

Photo Credit: Cayly Warner

Photo Credit: Cayly Warner

Photo Credit: Cayly Warner

Wet-Felting Masterclass

Ronel Jordaan, a renowned South African textile artist and designer, is celebrated for her exquisite felt creations. Her deep appreciation for the natural world, developed from an early age, profoundly influenced her work. In this masterclass, students learned the intricate steps of wet felting with wool and mohair to create unique textiles that reflect their artistic visions.

Photo Credit: Leandi Mulder

Photo Credit: Leandi Mulder

Hand-Weaving Masterclass

Carlé Dehning is a craft enthusiast and master of weaving, knitting, spinning, and dyeing various natural fibres. As the owner of two yarn and craft businesses—Nurturing Fibres and Woolcraft Fibrecraft Tools—she plays a vital role in the local textile industry. Her passion and understanding of South Africa's natural fibre landscape enrich her teaching. In this masterclass, students learned weaving craftsmanship, covering the essential steps of winding the warp, dressing the loom, and weaving captivating patterns and textures with mohair yarn.

Photo Credit: Leandi Mulder

Photo Credit: Leandi Mulder

Mohair Dyeing Masterclass

Cowgirlblues, a Cape Town-based dye house and design studio founded by Bridget Henderson, specialises in hand-dyed South African wool and mohair. The studio produces both commercially spun and hand-spun yarns, as well as ready-to-wear products that are machine-knitted and finished by hand. In this workshop, students delved into colour theory and learned how to dye skeins and wind yarns, experiencing firsthand the brilliant dye absorption of mohair fibre.

Photo Credit: Leandi Mulder

Mulder further adds, “We have to teach students to love the mohair through teaching about the farm, the animal, nature and environment, the Karoo. It’s so close to home and most people don’t even know it. Then teach about the unique characteristics that are reflected in yarns and fibre. From there, students have a completely different outlook on how to be inspired by the origin to create beautiful, cherished textiles which then ultimately dictate design thinking. This is the opposite way of how we have been taught to create fashion.”

The Farm to Fabric Masterclasses exemplify our commitment to fostering innovation, sustainability, and creativity within the fashion industry. By empowering students with the skills and knowledge necessary to work with mohair, we are preserving a vital resource and nurturing a new generation of fashion designers who will champion sustainable practices in their future careers.

Photo Credit: Cayly Warner

Reflecting on the culmination of this year's masterclasses Mulder explains “We have seen a difference through our workshops on how the physical practice of making of fabrics, even on the simplest of levels, can be a huge lightbulb moment. When you are touching a hand-spun mohair yarn, or felting a fabric with mohair, / mohair wool blend / or pure wool, you suddenly and intrinsically understand what that fibre really looks like, what it can do, what it can’t do, what makes it special. These movements are important.”

We look forward to seeing how these talented individuals will shape the future of fashion, inspired by the rich heritage of mohair.

 
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