The year 2020 has been classified by the United Nations as the year that ‘green jobs’ really took off. Green jobs cover not only new positions, but also existing ones that have been modified to include an environmental perspective across countries and industries. According to the United Nations, green jobs are occupations across a variety of sectors that contribute decisively to preserving or restoring environmental quality.  Coincidentally, the year 2020 was also a significant ‘green’ year for the South African Mohair Industry with the release of the global Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) by Textile Exchange, driven by global brand and retailer demand. The question on everyone’s lips remains, is the RMS, in its current form, enough to meet future global brand sourcing goals, or do we need to do more and to what end? 

Unpacking that question, much like sustainability, is a journey, and certainly one which no-one yet fully comprehends or has mastered. Entire industries across a myriad of sectors are walking this journey together, hand in hand, and with each new learning leading to even bigger and more relevant questions.  

Critically, the first and most important step, is the acknowledgment that we, as members of the mohair industry value chain, hold the responsibility to work together and to take action to ensure we continue meeting market sourcing criteria and, more specifically, actively play our part in striving towards a more sustainable planet. 

Sustainability cannot be seen as a finite project with a beginning and an end. So, to answer the question, is the RMS enough as it stands?  For a standard to achieve continued success and to reap the result it was intended for, conversations need to be open and ongoing, learning from one another and reasonably adapting practices when and where necessary.  We live in a fast-paced and ever-changing world where innovation, new technologies and sciences are uncovering new data almost hourly. So, will there be future changes to the RMS? The purpose and desired outcomes of the RMS when it comes to animal welfare and land health will not change, but how we work towards those goals may evolve over time in a continuous improvement process. Textile Exchange’s standard-setting process is founded on the principles of evidence-based decision-making and extensive stakeholder consultation. The mohair industry is considered a key stakeholder and is actively engaged in all conversations related to the RMS. Brands and retailers are facing increasing pressure to back up their sustainability claims. Consumers have become savvy and are calling out brands for greenwashing and weighing up marketing messages versus actions in practice.

Greenwashing is a term used to describe the deceptive practice of branding a company as ‘environmentally friendly’ without adopting a legitimate, sustainable operation. Regulators, advocacy groups, environmental and legal experts are paying more attention, and the pressure is on. Brands are being held accountable for setting and meeting sustainability targets, which they are unable to achieve without partnerships, associations, and collaborations across the value chain and, most importantly, at farm level with producers themselves. 

So why did the mohair industry adopt the global RMS by Textile Exchange and what does this mean for our future as an industry?   

Having worked on the team at the forefront of the unjust South African mohair exposé, I often wonder how many realise just how close we were to complete demise. With hundreds of brands banning mohair in just a few hours, the situation was dire, and there was a sense of urgency to respond swiftly, concisely, and with purpose. How better to engage our market than to partner with Textile Exchange?  By collaborating with Textile Exchange, the leading convenor for sustainability in the textile industry with a membership consisting of brands, retailers, suppliers, and raw material producers, we were able to engage with the entire global textile industry and regain our own voice, enabling us to tell our own unique and true story. Through this, the mohair industry was able to make new public commitments and, in doing so, to start rebuilding our relationships with our clients, once again making us an integral part in a globally responsible and trusted mohair supply chain. The implementation of the RMS not only elevated mohair back to its rightful position at the top of the fibre market but surpassed all expectations and deservingly positioned mohair producers in the global spotlight, for all the right reasons. Being an active participant in the Textile Exchange community has made it possible to continue engaging our market to ensure we meet global sourcing standards today, and in the future. 

South Africa, being the biggest source of mohair in the world, has a responsibility to lead and set the bar for other mohair-producing countries. In recognising this responsibility, more than ever, the global mohair industry needs to stand together and ensure innovation and sustainability needs are at the forefront of all our decisions and actions. Our joint focus should be to tell the mohair story and build on the credentials of mohair by staying at the forefront and enabling more efficiency through exploring synergistic opportunities in our value chain.  

 So, what is next?  It’s time for regenerative action!   

“Regenerative agriculture describes farming and grazing practices that, among other benefits, reverse climate change by rebuilding soil organic matter and restoring degraded soil biodiversity, resulting in both carbon drawdown and improving the water cycle” - Regeneration International Organisation

The greatest threat to our planet is the belief that someone else will save it! 

The global focus is on the urgent action that needs to be taken to ensure future generations have a world to enjoy.  The fashion industry is considered the second largest polluter in the world, just after the oil industry, and the environmental damage has been disastrous. Each stage of the supply chain has a part to play in reducing environmental impact, but for animal-based materials, farm level production is key. The agricultural industry, therefore, has an opportunity in the role we can play, and we are perfectly positioned to take actions that can have a proven positive impact on the future of our land while meeting our end-market goals. It’s a win-win! 

Our angora goats, and the rangelands on which they roam, have provided our farmers with so much, a relationship delicately woven together and reliant on each other for life. In support of the UN’s Decade of Restoration, it’s time to embrace the journey of land regeneration. This will enable and increase the productive capability of our farming efforts and land over several decades, making regeneration a journey of growth. So, what does this mean? The massive, global degradation of soil is one of the main environmental issues our planet is currently facing, and our end-market is under pressure to actively implement and/or support practices and initiatives that can collectively make a difference. In some way, every South African farmer has implemented environmental management practices on their land by the mere nature of farming in the country. This could be through the restoration of degraded landscapes by changing herding practices, re-establishing vegetation, or excluding animals from certain camps for periods. Rather than something totally new, regenerative action is a further development of current management with a mindset of continual improvement.  One of the key outcomes will be improved soil health. Healthy soil is a fundamental element of our ecosystem as it regulates water, provides nutrients for plants to grow, cycles nutrients and removes CO2 from the atmosphere.   

Where do we start? 

We can start by practising global consciousness with an open mind. We really do have so much to gain by exploring and implementing a practical solution to measure and record the impact our farming practices have on our land, using that information to adjust our management. There is no one size fits all and no perfect answer, but what we do know is the day is drawing near when environmental labelling will become a standard requirement when exporting mohair.  As an industry, we need to actively explore solutions, keeping a proactive approach to ensure generations beyond us continue farming successfully in South Africa. The goal is land management that delivers the environmental outcomes our buyers need, as well as positive impacts on mohair production. Textile Exchange recently announced their 2030 Climate+ goal of 45% reduction in CO2 emissions from preferred fibre and material production, and have acknowledged that this goal cannot be achieved alone.  They have called on the industry to support the engagement process and to be part of the solution.  The end goal is to identify and implement a practical, workable, regenerative solution that can form part of your RMS process.  

But until then, let’s learn more and keep this conversation open.