Mohair South Africa

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An incredible hour with Frances vH in her studio in Prince Albert

Frances vH, the daughter of the late Clive van Hasselt, a leading Angora Goat stud breeder, and a well-known figure in the global mohair industry. She grew up on the family's farm outside Prince Albert, in the Western Cape, where her father's passion for mohair had a profound influence on her. Although Frances obtained a degree in politics, philosophy, and entrepreneurship, she pursued a career in textiles due to her interest in the ancient skill and craft.

Frances has a need to deeply understand, which has served her well in her journey into textiles. She has approached specialists around the world, growing her knowledge in design, fibres, yarns, textiles, dyeing, spinning and weaving, and has spent time in their factories, studios and communities, absorbing and learning all that she could. In return, she shared her knowledge and inspired them in ‘all things mohair’ and the creative spirit found in South Africa.

Frances says that she is not creative in the traditional sense, but is inspired by her surroundings and has an innate ability to translate this into sketches that her team of craftswomen use to create exquisite pieces. They are masters in their field, and Frances feels honoured to be working alongside them. Her studio is on the outskirts of Prince Albert, where they are surrounded by magnificent landscapes and views which inspire their creations.

The studio sources some greasy mohair from the family farm, which is then washed and cleaned by hand to remove the dirt and vegetable matter. This process takes time and is very intentional. The washed mohair is ‘opened up’ and left to dry in the Karoo air and sunlight before it is ready for hand dyeing and spinning. The equipment used in this studio are traditional spinning wheels and weaving looms that are all hand operated. The artisanal skill of these craftswomen are part of their heritage, and each has their own style and signature.

Frances also buys back some of the family farm’s mohair that has been industrially processed into tops for her studio. This means that only mohair from their farm is used, ensuring that Frances vH pieces are truly sustainable - from goat to finished items.

Frances is blessed with one-off commissions for tapestries, floor rugs, and art pieces for influential clients across the world, which has led to her being featured in international magazines and as a guest speaker on many creative platforms. Her ability to articulate their journey and process is captivating and inspiring.

Frances' studio is not open to the public; however she welcomes visitors by appointment only as this allows her to engage with those keen to learn without disrupting the studio.

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